Hats

French Hoods
Based on period styles

Fortunately, there are many portraits and illuminations of women and even little girls wearing French Hoods. This gives us a variety of examples to base our own designs upon. The French Hood evolved over the 1500', becoming more curved and then later shorter but more embellished with jewels and billaments. These are two French hoods based on those worn by Anne Boleyn and Queen Mary during the 15th century.
French Hood worn by Anne Boleyn,
2nd wife of Henry VIII, King of England.

Anne married Henry in 1533 but he executed her in May of 1536. Anne was the mother of Elizabeth I. Anne was responsible for the popularity of the French Hood, a fashion statement when she brought to England from France. Henry was always eager to foster new trends on his court from France, Spain and England. Even though the upstanding crescent worn as a hat had already been worn in Spain, embroidered with silks, the style did not become popular until it reached England. This simple hood is constructed of black velveteen, pearls, gold and white braid trim and red fluted ribbon. Black velvet fall.
French Hood Worn by Queen Mary

...who reigned England from 1553 to 1558. Mary. This French Hood is made of red and black velveteen, adorned with pearls, white braid around the face adorned with faux garnets or rubies and pearls and red fluted ribbon. Along the crescent is black trim accented with pearls and faux garnets or rubies. Black velvet fall.
Portrait by Master John painted in 1554,
Catherine Howard
who married Henry VIII in 1540
She was executed for high treason in 1542

This red hood is accented with white rushing and faux pearls around the face, and adorned with black and gold braid along the crescent accented with faux pearls. Black velvet fall. In this photo fall is off to the side.
French hood worn by Lady Jane Grey
who was Queen of England for nine days in 1553
when she was just a teenager to ensure a Protestant reign
She was put in the tower by Queen Mary and executed in 1554

Portrait by Master John.
This is an elaborate red hood accented with white braid, faux pearls and faux rubies or garnets around the face with gold rushing. Gold along the face denoted nobility. Along the crescent is a flowered gold trim accented with gold beads. The hood is accented with a black velveteen fall lined with black cotton for body. In this photo fall is swept to the side. All hand stitched and hand-beaded from smoke-free shop. This hood comes with documentation. While the hoods of the Tudor period would have a separate coif as the fall at the back of the head, I have attached the fall to the hood for comfort and ease. This versatile hood is a great accent for your Tudor or Elizabethan gown for Renfaires, SCA court or the theater. $23.00
French Hood

This is one of the most popular and most recognizable of all Tudor women's hats. Although the crescent-shaped hood originated in Spain, it was not made popular until Anne Bolyn went to England and became the second wife if Henry VIII. She brought the style from France and it became all the rage in England. Many portraits and illuminations from the time show both women and young girls wearing the French Hood. The Spanish Hood is a higher hood with a more severe and tailored design.
Each of our French Hoods is made of velveteen with the trim, beads and pearls hand-stitched on the frame, not glued on. Between 10-16 hours of handwork are put into each of our hoods. Our French Hood base is made of plastic instead of buckram so it will stand up to wear in the rain as well as packing and unpacking. The French hoods of Tudor times often had the fall as a separate piece worn on the head or on top of a white ruffled coif. We prefer to attach our fall to the top of the hood for ease and comfort. But custom hoods can be ordered with separate coifs. While the French Hood of Tudor times was usually made of red, black or white material, we make both documented hats and some in colors for those who wish to match their hat to a Tudor dress. Custom orders are always welcome and we will even make a hood from your dress fabric if you wish to have a matching hood. You may choose a hat based on a documented period hat or choose one made of blue, green, purple, maroon or black crushed velveteen. Choose from hats worn by Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, Queen Mary. $23.00
These French hoods are of our own design rather than based on existing historical hoods. These French hoods are made in jewel tone colors in crushed velveteen using a great deal of beading with faux pearls, gold beads, glass stones to resemble precious and semi-precious jewels. Gold lace is near the face and the hood is accented with trim in metallic gold or pearl white. Red hood is adorned with faux rubies. Blue hood with faux sapphires or lapis lazuli. Green hood with faux emeralds or real adventurine Purple hood with real or faux amethysts Burgundy hood with faux or real amethyst. Black hood with real obsidian. $25.00 and up depending on the stones.
The Coif or Biggins

This is one of the more common hats worn by men and women both during the day and at night as a sleeping cap This is the earliest style, made with two pieces which was worn by the Finns and Vikings and in other parts of northern Europe. This cap is based on finds from the Bernuthsfeld bog finds. Early examples of coifs or hoods have been found in peat bogs in Germany, Denmark and Holland. Vikings wore the coif made in a simple construction of two pieces from linen. In Norway and Finland, the Kviev, was worn as par of the daily costume by many. Existing examples of entire hats have been unearthed from the bogs. Made of 100% cotton and edged with hand-woven cotton or wool inkle trim in contrasting colors. Choose beige or tan cotton. Small, medium, large. $10.00.
The Padded Roll Hat
Burgundy and Italy 1400 -1500

The rolled hat styles are some of the more recognized of the Burgundian. They often seen worn by women in the many Books of Hours produced in Burgundy during the 14th century. They could be worn with a veil under the roll or over the roll.
Made of brocade in your choice of mauve, burgundy or blue. Accented with pearls, ribbon and centerpiece brooch. $10.00.
Choose size, small, medium or large.
The Heart Shaped Padded Roll Hat
This is the same type of hat as the padded roll, but has wire in it to shape the hat into a heart. Made of brocade in your choice of mauve, burgundy or blue. Accented with pearls, ribbon and centerpiece brooch. $10.00.
Choose size, small, medium or large.
Italian Ren Juliette Caps These beaded caplets are great to wear with your Italian Ren court garb. Each cap is hand-stitched and beaded and has a small comb attached for more comfortable wear. Great to wear alone or with a beaded caul or veil. Available in a variety of colors in velvet and brocade and beaded with pearls, gold or silver beads or colored gemstones. $15.00
The Simple Straw Hat The straw hat is period!!! You will find the straw hat in illuminations from the 13th to 16th centuries in a variety of countries worn by peasant and nobleman alike. Our straw hats are commercially made for best fit to keep out both shade and rain. Check out the Burgundian Tres Riches Heures from the Duc De Berry 1416 where nobleman go for a horseback ride or the Illumination from the Hours of the Virgin, Flanders, 1515 where peasants work in the hayfield. Everyone wearing straw hats!!! So next time someone challenges you with the comment, "But that's not period. Show them the proof! Comes with your choice from a wide variety of colorful ribbon ties. Only $5.00.
The Travelers Hood or Liripipe This is a style which was popular for men all over Europe because of it's practicality. The headdress totally covers the head and shoulders, leaving only an opening for the face. It was commonly worn in harsher weather and we know it as a traveler's hood. Eventually as the 12th century progressed the point elongated into a tail which fell down the back. These hats are all based on a similar design. What in England is known as a hood, is in France called la Capuchon. Sometimes the hat is called a liripipe in England but that word only applies to the long tail which falls down the back, sometimes, past the knees. Women also wear this hat in harsh weather. Wear this hood up to be mysterious or down to create a mantle like collar for any tunic or shirt. Our liripies are trimmed with hand-woven inkle braid in contrasting colors in wool, linen or cotton. Some braids are hand-dyed using natural period dyes. Natural cotton $20.00 or blue linen. $25.00.